AOL Travel Ideas

Las Vegas's 6 Best Buffet Hangover Cures

Elaine Glusac — 2013-05-23T16:57:00+00:00

Other than showgirls and the neon cowboy known as Vegas Vic, few things are more endemic to Las Vegas than a hangover. From free drinks for casino gamblers to beer-soaked poolside parties and nightclubs that never stop, booze and its aftereffects are constant companions for many Sin City visitors.

Revelers seeking hair-of-the-dog fixes to absorb all those toxins should train their bleary eyes no farther than the following buffet cures.

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Paia and Dinner on the North Shore: Maui Upcountry Road Trip

Chris Gray Faust — 2013-05-15T12:19:00+00:00

Filed under: Food + Drink, Road Trips

I left the dairy and continued heading toward the coast. While this technically ended my Upcountry tour, Maui's North Shore has its fair share of local flavor, albeit of the surfing variety. As you might expect from those who live wave to wave, the North Shore's main town, Paia, is geared toward those on a budget-well, as budget as Maui gets. Its few blocks of storefronts are full of bikini boutiques, crowded indie cafes and more than one head shop. To be honest, it seemed a little grungy to me, particularly when compared with the upscale galleries and shops in Makawao.

Luckily, my hotel, the Paia Inn, proved to be a suitable refuge. From the street, you can't tell that the cheerful yellow building housing the lobby is just one part of a sprawling complex of beachy-boutique cabins that wind down to the water. My apartment-sized room came with a living room, full kitchen and outdoor patio (and shower!). I had time for a quick dip before dinner so I grabbed a complimentary body board and headed out to the ocean, where I floated for an hour or two.

Road Trip Starting Point:
Exploring Maui's Upcountry

My job requires me to eat by myself quite a bit, and while I'm used to it, I always appreciate it when servers go out of their way to make sure that things go smoothly. That means they are solicitous without being overbearing, chatty without being familiar -- and they don't assume that you'll tip less. When I saw the crowds at Mama's Fish House, an iconic restaurant outside Paia that finds itself on many of Hawaii's top foodie lists, I worried that I'd feel out of place among the noisy vacationers and family groups. I didn't need to worry, as my server proved appropriately casual.

The entree prices, however, were anything but. While I'm used to splurging on occasional meals, entrees in the $40-$50 price range are still a shock. Sure, the menu points out exactly who caught the fish (I was told that my Ono, for example, had been caught "along the north shore of Maui by Jeff Holland"). And I did love my sashimi appetizer, served with delicious Hawaiian salt varieties that I vowed to buy later. Yet it seemed an indulgence, particularly on a weeknight; I felt a little guilty splurging on such a rich meal without my husband along to share. I can see why many people save this spot for their big night out on Maui.

Afterward, I took a walk along the sand out front (along with several couples, strolling hand in hand). As I looked out onto the water, the moon peeking through the palm trees, I realized how relaxed I was. My day in Upcountry had worked its aloha magic.

<< Previous Stop: Hanging 10 with the Goats
Starting Point: Road Trip: Exploring Maui's Upcountry >>

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Hanging 10 with the Goats: Maui Upcountry Road Trip

Chris Gray Faust — 2013-05-15T12:16:00+00:00

Filed under: Food + Drink, Road Trips

From here Route 37 continues south before turning east into the Piilani Highway, an alternate route to Hana that skirts Haleakala National Park. It's a two-hour drive along rugged and rocky roads along the ocean that can be a little rough -- not all rental car companies allow you to bring your car there. Instead, I turned around and backtracked north on 37. Here, it's easy to suss out Upcountry's priorities: Every other business along Route 37 seemed to be a homeopathic shop and/or massage studio.

Before I passed through Makawao, I turned on Omaopio, a decidedly rural road that winds past farms and dusty dirt roads. This is the heart of the island's agricultural community, where traditional crops include the famous sweet Maui (Kula) onion. I had milk instead of veggies on my mind today, however, as I pulled up to my next destination, the Surfing Goat Dairy.

Road Trip Starting Point:
Exploring Maui's Upcountry

Owned by German expats Thomas and Eva Kafsack, the Surfing Goat is one of only a handful of goat farms in the U.S. that have earned designation for humanely raised products. Their main product is artisan cheese, which is free of hormones, antibiotics and preservatives; it's served in upscale Hawaiian restaurants, including Alan Wong and Mama's Fish House, and also sold in some grocery stores on the mainland.

The parking lot at the surfboard-bedecked dairy was full on a summer weekday afternoon; the farm is a popular tourist stop for families, as they watch their kids play with goat kids. While there's no restaurant on-site, you can purchase the dairy's handmade spreads and goat cheese truffles, take a tour and even take part in the evening milking ritual ($12 for kids, $15 for adults).

After admiring the baby goats (it is hard to resist their cuteness), I did a quick sample of the cheeses that they were featuring that day at the homey wooden window. On my visit, standouts included Purple Rain, made with bits of Maui lavender; Rolling Green, full of fresh chives; and Men's Challenge, peppered with horseradish. The chevres tasted so good that I almost splurged on an $89 take-home six-pack, which included an insulated cooler to put in your checked luggage. Maybe next time.

Maui Upcountry Road Trip Stop Five: Paia and Dinner on the North Shore >>
<< Previous Stop: Lavender and Lunch near Kula

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Lavender and Lunch near Kula: Maui Upcountry Road Trip

Chris Gray Faust — 2013-05-15T12:12:00+00:00

Filed under: Food + Drink, Road Trips

The road out of Makawao passes through sugar cane fields, where you can glimpse the ocean through the waving grasses. I turned my car onto state Route 37 and headed toward Kula, home of the Ali'i Kula Lavender Farm.

The Haleakala crater, the remnant of a once-active volcano, dominates Upcountry Maui, and the soil on the leeward side supports many farms, including this one, which looks like something you'd see in Provence. The sustainable farm sits at a 4,000-foot elevation, which offers perfect cool weather for the 55,000 lavender plants. It's a popular place for a picnic (the farm charges $3 just to get in), and there are daily tours ($12) as well as frequent gardening and crafting classes.

Road Trip Starting Point:
Exploring Maui's Upcountry

I took a look at the tours but decided that it would be more fun to meander the purple-flowered hillside on my own, despite the rain clouds I saw rolling in from the mountains. Bees buzzed around the rows, and the air smelled like a spa, au natural; this relaxed me far more than any yoga class would. Before I left, I bought a lavender scone from the farm's gift shop to eat later.

Back in Makawao, Rene Wineland -- owner of the shop Aloha Cowboy -- had given me a quick synopsis of Maui's ranching history: In the 1830s, a few decades after cattle had been introduced to the island, Kamehameha III invited Spanish-Mexican vaqueros to capture and slaughter the beasts, which had been running free and causing problems. These vaqueros, along with the Hawaiians they brought into the business, became the paniolos, the Hawaiian cowboys.

At 20,000 acres, Ulupalakua Ranch remains one of the biggest of Maui's ranching tracts, where the Erdman family raises elk as well as cattle. You can sample both meats in burger form at the ranch's Grill (I saw a few people buying steaks to bring back to their condos). While both sounded great, I couldn't resist the opportunity to indulge in another Hawaiian staple, a BBQ kalua pig sandwich, and took it to the lawn's picnic tables. The pork tasted succulent, with a tangy sauce. Even the bun was grilled, a nice touch.

Right across the road from the grill sits Maui's Winery, located in a ranch guest house that was built for King Kalakaua, a frequent visitor back in the 1870s. Also known as Tedeschi Vineyards, the winery is the only commercial one on the island and has red, white and fruit varietals. I skipped the tour, opting for a free tasting of pineapple wine instead. Swirl, sip -- ugh, too sweet. I skipped buying a bottle.

Maui Upcountry Road Trip Stop Four: Hanging 10 with the Goats >>
<< Previous Stop: Malasadas in Makawao

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Malasadas in Makawao: Maui Upcountry Road Trip

Chris Gray Faust — 2013-05-15T12:08:00+00:00

Filed under: Food + Drink, Road Trips

Leaving Lumeria, I pulled my rental car out onto Baldwin Avenue, the two-lane road that runs from Maui's beach-oriented North Shore to the more agricultural island interior. The journey passes sugar cane fields of waving grass, with sloping hillsides up to Haleakala on one side and sweeping vistas down to the Pacific on the other. My next stop: Makawao and the T. Komoda Store & Bakery, the Upcountry place to come for malasadas, a Portuguese dessert made of fried dough.

Once known for its paniolos (cowboys), Makawao has reinvented itself as an arts destination, with trendy boutiques, galleries and restaurants popping up in its renovated plantation-style buildings. Drawn by the colorful giclees of island life propped up near the door, I stopped at the Kirsten Bunney Gallery, one of several art galleries along Makawao's main street.

Road Trip Starting Point:
Exploring Maui's Upcountry

Inside, a golden retriever named Jazzy snoozed in the middle of the floor as I chatted with Kirsten's husband, Scott. He told that me that while Makawao might seem like an off-the-beaten-track location, the town is one of the few places on the island where artists can still make a living, as high rents have pushed locals out of Lahaina. The concentration of artists has its benefits, he said, as Makawao now has enough critical mass to sponsor a third Friday art walk celebration, as well as an organic farmers market on Wednesdays.

Such gentrification can rejuvenate a community. But I was more interested in a Makawao institution that's been around for nearly 100 years. The T. Komoda Store & Bakery looks nondescript on the outside, with a Coca-Cola sign that's ragged around the edges. Skip the crowded aisles as your eyes adjust to the dim light inside the grocery and go straight to the old-fashioned glass case that's filled with several dozen varieties of baked goods.

I had read good reviews of the doughnuts, stacked five to six deep on a wooden stick, as well as the signature cream puffs. You can only consume so many calories, however, and I had mine reserved for the malasadas. At Komoda, these sweet treats are tossed in sugar and filled with custard or fruit; top choices include guava and coconut, which win raves for their freshness. I chose the latter, enjoying the flavors as they melded with the cinnamon-sweet dough. Some cravings are worth the wait.

Maui Upcountry Road Trip Stop Three: Lavender and Lunch near Kula >>
<< Previous Stop: Starting Healthy at Lumeria Sanctuary

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Starting Healthy at Lumeria Sanctuary: Maui Upcountry Road Trip

Chris Gray Faust — 2013-05-15T12:04:00+00:00

Filed under: Food + Drink, Road Trips

I'm not what you'd call a yoga person. Contorting my body into odd poses, often at ungodly hours? So not my thing.

But I couldn't resist the allure of Lumeria, a luxury wellness retreat located in Upcountry, on the road between Paia and Makawao. Built in 1909 by a wealthy family, the 6-acre, 24-room historic property was transformed into an Asian-influenced sanctuary by designer Xorin Balbes in early 2012, with Balinese loungers and Buddha statues scattered around the lush grounds. (Since my visit, a saltwater pool and whirlpool have been added.)

Road Trip Starting Point:
Exploring Maui's Upcountry

The sound of roosters stirred me from my four-poster bed. Meant as an escape from the noise of daily life, the resort doesn't have TVs or other entertainment in the rooms (although you are welcome to borrow books from the New Age-heavy library). Leaving my room and padding my way through the open-air hallway, I saw some people out on the lawn performing sun salutations and peeked in on a few flexible souls getting into their downward dog. Relaxed from the lomi lomi massage I had on-site the day before and lulled by the property's spa-style wind chimes, I thought briefly about joining them. Nah. Breakfast was calling.

Lumeria's dining room is simple, with countryside chic touches. Pitchers of organic fruit juices and lemon mint water were available, along with fresh fruit, granola and yogurt (many guests come to Lumeria for the resort's specially designed juice cleanses). As I surveyed the choices, a fit couple in yoga gear entered, flushed from their morning session. Hailing from Phoenix, they had found Lumeria through a coupon travel site and planned their Hawaiian vacation to take advantage of the classes and healthy food.

Personally, I'm a little more indulgent, especially when it comes to Hawaiian food. So I ate lightly, saving room for the treats that I knew I'd find around the island later. There are many ways to find your bliss.

Maui Upcountry Road Trip Stop Two: Malasadas in Makawao >>
<< Road Trip: Exploring Maui's Upcountry

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Road Trip: Exploring Maui's Upcountry

Chris Gray Faust — 2013-05-15T12:00:00+00:00

Filed under: Food + Drink, Road Trips

Most Maui visitors stick close to the coast, concentrating their vacations in the resort towns of Lahaina and Wailea, or driving the twisty road to Hana. What people don't realize is that the interior, known as Upcountry, offers a breezy tranquility, with locally owned boutiques and art galleries, restaurants and farms, yoga retreats and wellness studios. While Upcountry isn't completely undiscovered -- Oprah owns a large ranch there -- the smaller towns and rolling hills give a glimpse of the way that life on this mostly agricultural island used to be.

Looking for more road trip ideas? Visit our Great American Road Trips home page.

On this food-focused day trip, I made a circle through Upcountry, seeking out fresh produce and Hawaiian favorites, such as malasadas. The road trip took me from the North Shore beach town of Paia, home to Mama's Fish House, to Ulupalakua Ranch, which lies not far from the Haleakala National Park. Along the way, I met some native Hawaiians, as well as transplants, who revealed why Upcountry is such a draw for those who want to enjoy local flavors while escaping the congestion and high prices that dominate Maui's more typical tourist areas.

Maui Road Trip Stop One: Starting Healthy at Lumeria Sanctuary
Maui Road Trip Stop Two: Malasadas in Makawao
Maui Road Trip Stop Three: Lavender and Lunch near Kula
Maui Road Trip Stop Four: Hanging 10 with the Goats
Maui Road Trip Stop Five: Paia and dinner on the North Shore

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Meander Through NULU—Louisville's East Market District

MapQuest Discover — 2013-05-03T10:13:00+00:00

Filed under: Food + Drink, Weekend Getaways

Find out why folks are flocking to New Louisville (NULU). The historic area has had a recent resurgence of restaurants, galleries and shops, with enough food and fun to fill an afternoon -- or two.

Morning
Every breakfast spot serves a sammy, but never has one been so well executed as the bacon and egg sandwich at Toast. In case you're not an early riser, they serve breakfast all day.

Design junkies can get their fix with the home décor stores flanking East Market Street. Scout sells a stylish mix of personal and home accessories, from sofas to statement jewelry. Find Louisville lore like vintage Derby posters and an eclectic selection of furniture from Relleck. Working women will love the laptop bags by journalist-turned-designer Emily Gimmel from Graceship (sold at Work the Metal, the super cool store right below her studio).

Read the rest of Meander Through NULU-Louisville's East Market District on AOL's Mapquest Discover.

You may also like: Louisville Road Trip: Driving the American Horse Trail

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5 Must-Eat Cuban Meals in Miami

Valerie Conners — 2013-04-24T09:27:00+00:00

Filed under: Best Of, Food + Drink

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Velos and Vino: Best Biking Destinations in California's Wine Country

MapQuest Discover — 2013-04-23T09:43:00+00:00

Filed under: Adventure Travel, Food + Drink

Running and wine? Not so much. Swimming and wine? Uh, too soggy. But biking and wine...now, there's a match made in a very happy heaven. There's just something about pedaling toward a pinot noir that makes a lot of sense. Just ask the French. Or the Californians, who know that biking from vineyard to vineyard is one of the most sublime ways to spend a day, or three, or six.

See how to wheel through California's wine country on AOL's MapQuest Discover.

You may also like:
5 Must Eat Foods in Italy's Cinque Terre
The Long Haul: Top Global Destinations for Foodies
5 Best Buffet Dishes in Las Vegas

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5 Must-Eat Foods in Italy's Cinque Terre

Kelly DiNardo — 2013-04-17T09:16:00+00:00

Filed under: Best Of, Food + Drink

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The Long Haul: Top Global Destinations for Foodies

MapQuest Discover — 2013-04-15T10:00:00+00:00

Filed under: Food + Drink

There are those of us who eat to live, and those who live to eat.
The same goes for travel: Some people are content with a Starbucks Frappuccino in Mexico City or a McRib in Shanghai, and others-the foodies among us-choose our next trips based on what our stomach says. Not sure what you're craving, but know you want a culinary adventure?

Use this guide to pick your next delicious destination on AOL's MapQuest Discover.

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5 Best Buffet Dishes in Las Vegas

Elaine Glusac — 2013-04-12T10:07:00+00:00

Filed under: Best Of, Food + Drink

Before the era of celebrity chefs, buffets ruled the culinary world of Las Vegas. They were cheap, plentiful, filling and speedy means to get gamblers back to the tables pronto. Now, they are expensive, plentiful and filling, designed to sate more sophisticated diners before they hit the pool club, gallery or Cirque du Soleil show. Gourmet standards reign with options like sushi stations, Peking duck and candy bars. Here are the five biggest hits from the five best buffets on the Strip.

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Gadling's 2013 Budget Guide to Las Vegas
Las Vegas for Kids: 10 Family Friendly Destinations

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Wheeling To Good Eats: Top 5 Food Truck Cities in the U.S.

MapQuest Discover — 2013-04-11T10:00:00+00:00

Filed under: Food + Drink

The Food Truck Revolution has officially hit.

From Portland to New York, everywhere people are dishing out meals on wheels - and they're not just serving hot dogs and pizza anymore. Food trucks' mobile nature, and chill, fun vibe also means the food is everything from vegetarian to Korean to Thai fusion, and a lot of it is true gourmet.

Check out these top five food truck cities on AOL's MapQuest Discover.

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Food Pilgrimage: The Quest for the Baltimore Crab Cake that Got Away

Valerie Conners — 2013-04-03T11:53:00+00:00

Filed under: Food + Drink

Baltimore locals are quick to expound on their city's highlights: first-rate museums like the Walters Art Museum, the Inner Harbor and the Super Bowl-winning Ravens. Still, some residents would argue that Charm City's greatest point of pride is a more savory entity: crab cakes. This waterfront city on the Chesapeake Bay loves a good crab dish. Yet, while living in Baltimore for four years while studying at Loyola University in the 1990s, I never ate a crab cake.

If you're asking how it's possible to live in a city where crab dishes are everywhere and never manage to munch on a crab cake, the answer is simple: I was broke. My life as a student involved eating a lot of boxed macaroni and cheese and pilfering rolls of toilet paper from public bathrooms to save on living costs.

In short, it did not involve crab cakes.

This year marks 15 years since I graduated from Loyola and left Baltimore. It seemed appropriate to embark on a pilgrimage from my current home in New York City to Baltimore, where -- no longer a broke college kid -- I would sink my teeth into a succulent crab cake.

Here's what happened.

DESTINATION: KOCO'S PUB
Where does one go to eat Baltimore's best? The answer, hands down, is Koco's Pub, according to writer and local resident Jennifer Plum-Auvil. I determined her instincts were on point after researching the pub and discovering glowing reviews in the Baltimore City Paper, Baltimore Sun and even Yelp.

Owned by Joanna and John Kocovinos since 1985, Koco's is said to dish out Baltimore's tastiest -- and some of its largest -- crab cakes. The only people making Koco's crab cakes and privy to the recipe are Joanna and her daughter Marcella Knight. The mother-daughter duo serves up an average of 200 crab cakes daily and up to 300 on weekends, according to Knight.

The Kocovinos bought the restaurant after Joanna had spent years in the restaurant business, including a stint making crab cakes at the Pump Room, a now-defunct crab house. Knight remembers Koco's as more of a bar scene and less of a restaurant when it opened. "We cooked crab cakes in a pizza oven and used a chalkboard with the menu of the day," she says. "We made whatever my mom bought in the grocery store."

The tide turned 12 years ago, when the family remodeled Koco's and offered a regular, full menu. People began to notice Koco's and its crab cakes.

"We went from serving 20 crab cakes a week to 200 a day," says Knight. "We just grew and grew and grew." Indeed, today, Koco's kitchen breezes through 500 pounds of crab meat weekly to meet customers' demand.

Tucked into Baltimore's tiny Lauraville neighborhood, Koco's seems a world away from the throngs of tourists that visit the city's Inner Harbor. Though it's only about 15 minutes from the city's center, we drove through some of Baltimore's rougher neighborhoods, all too reminiscent of The Wire before finding ourselves on Harford Road, complete with a coffee roaster, restaurants and a smattering of shops. After riding through these shifting demographics and arriving at Koco's, I felt a smidge of self-satisfaction for stumbling upon a city secret - until I entered the pub. Inside, diners clamored for tables, and stragglers vied for seats at the bar. I sat down, soaked up the scene and took a gander at the menu. My crab cake hour was nigh.

WAS IT WORTH THE WAIT?
Koco's is housed in the brightest building on its block, painted sunshine yellow, with an equally cheerful interior, complete with a children's play area as well as Baltimore sports memorabilia, kitschy bar signs ("When life hands you lemons...grab the tequila and salt!") and photos of regular customers' babies decorating peach and yellow walls. It may be a pub, but this is no dive bar.

When the waiter arrived, I ordered the jumbo lump crab cake platter and discovered Koco's offers 6-ounce and 11-ounce versions of its cakes. When presented with the options, I made the obvious choice: Go big or go home, right?

As mentioned, Koco's draws a crowd; the restaurant warns that there could be a hefty wait for your meal. From the time I ordered until my plate's arrival, a very long 52 minutes passed.

Was the crab cake worth the wait? Absolutely. Koco's, it would appear, has made an opulent art out of this dish.

The 11-ounce crab cake is a genuine monster, in the absolute finest sense of the word. It rests on a bed of lettuce, the exterior darkened and slightly crispy from the broiler, the interior chock full of gigantic clumps of white, tender crab meat. Kocovinos uses the barest amount of tiny, hand-cut bread cubes to hold the meat together, and a secret recipe of ingredients lends the crab cake a slightly creamy consistency with a perfectly pitched flavor of classic Old Bay seasoning and spices. The platter includes no condiments; it would be criminal to mask the flavors with tartar or cocktail sauce.

The meal included French fries, coleslaw and a sliced tomato garnish, but truly, I commend the soul who houses an 11 ounce crab cake, plus the copious sides. I managed to finish every last morsel of crab cake, which left me so sated that I could merely nibble the fries and slaw.

Feeling blissed out and very full, I had to admit my pilgrimage exceeded any possible crab cake expectations. In fact, I'm still awed that one crab cake could be so delectable and so enormous and even contain chunks of crab meat as big as a quarter. After indulging in Koco's deliciousness, I only regret that I can't sink my teeth into their crab cakes regularly. It may be cold comfort, but, yes, my last trip to the supermarket did involve purchasing (not pilfering!) Old Bay seasoning. Nope, it's not the same. But, hey, dare to dream.

You May Also Like: 5 Restaurants and Bars in Baltimore for Enjoying a Drink

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Everydayer: America's 5 Best Chocolate Factory Tours

MapQuest Discover — 2013-03-26T11:57:00+00:00

Filed under: Food + Drink

Charlie may have needed a golden ticket to get into Wonka's famous chocolate factory, but you don't need a shiny prize to pop into these cocoa creation destinations. Let your sweet tooth run wild and snag a spot on one of these top chocolate factory tours, each specializing in a different style and method of chocolate making.

Theo, Seattle, Washington
Located in the funky Fremont neighborhood of Seattle, Theo was the first chocolate factory in the country to produce a batch of organic chocolate in 2006. The tradition continues today as the factory produces only organic and fair trade bars with flavors like coconut curry, salted almond, and pink peppercorn cherry. Book a one-hour tour (with samples at the end) for $6, available Monday through Sunday starting at 10:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m.

Read the rest of Everydayer: America's 5 Best Chocolate Factory Tours at AOL's MapQuest Discover.

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Vacation at a Whole Foods Spa? It Could Happen.

AOL Travel Staff — 2013-03-25T14:33:00+00:00

Filed under: Food + Drink

Whole Foods will soon open the company's first "upscale health resort."

The market's co-founder John Mackey told USA Today that the resort, which began as an internal idea after a successful program to improve its employees' eating and lifestyle habits, would likely open near Austin, Texas, in the next three years.

Check out Daily Finance for the rest of the story.

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Around The Block: The World of Coca Cola, Atlanta

MapQuest Discover — 2013-03-22T10:30:00+00:00

Filed under: Family, Food + Drink

Invented in 1886 by an Atlanta pharmacist, Coca-Cola has influenced the global beverage industry ever since. The soda's long and storied history plays out every day at Atlanta, Georgia's World of Coca-Cola, located in a palatial, 92,000 square-foot space just north of downtown.

The two-level monolith shows off the vault where the top secret Coca-Cola formula is stored, hundreds of red and white Coca-Cola signs and marketing materials, and a pop culture gallery documenting the brand's impact on American culture.

Read the rest of the Around The Block: The World of Coca Cola, Atlanta at AOL's MapQuest Discover.

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Neighborhood Food Watch: Eat Street, Minneapolis

Doug Mack — 2013-02-28T11:49:00+00:00

Filed under: Food + Drink

The City: Minneapolis

The Street: Nicollet Avenue, just south of downtown, between Grant Street and Lake Street

Vibe: International flavors in a low-key Midwestern atmosphere

Background: This 17-block stretch of Nicollet Avenue represents the full cultural diversity of Minneapolis. Nicollet has long had a reputation as food-centric street, in part due to an influx of Southeast Asian immigrant entrepreneurs who moved here in the 1980s. In the mid-1990s, as the area reached a culinary critical mass, a few restaurant owners joined forces to brand the corridor as "Eat Street"; today, everyone calls it that. The heart of Eat Street is between 25th and 29th Streets, where some 30 restaurants represent seemingly every corner of the world, with prices to suit any budget.

Start Here: At the corner of 26th Street and Nicollet, you can see the story of Eat Street in a sweeping glance. For the sake of history, begin at the Black Forest Inn (right), the city's German food standard-bearer and a Nicollet Avenue stalwart, having been here since 1965 (co-owner Joanne Christ was one of the leaders of the Eat Street branding effort). Step inside for an Old World overdose: a showcase bar with carved dark wood and a dining room with paintings of rustic manors nestled along the Rhine and other rural tableaus. And, most important, plates piled with house-made bratwurst or, from the "Very German" section of the menu, nieren-sauteed veal kidney with spaetzel and red cabbage ($16, about the mid-point of entree prices here). You'll also need a beer, so get the Paulaner Salvator, a rich, dark doppelbock.

Back outside, stand on the corner to take in what Eat Street has become: a pleasing jumble of cultures, as though someone pulled country names from a hat and randomly assigned storefronts. Next to the Black Forest Inn is Little Tijuana; directly across 26th Street are The Bad Waitress, a quirky modern riff on an old-school diner, and a Vietnamese bistro called Jasmine 26, the snazzier younger sibling of Jasmine Deli, on the other side of Nicollet Avenue.

When Jasmine Deli opened in 2000, its nine tables were most likely to be filled by the area's Vietnamese community, but it soon began attracting all manner of fans. It has a classic street-food tmosphere, like many Eat Street establishments: acoustic tile on the ceiling, buff-colored laminate and large bottles of sriracha sauce on the tables and astonishingly low prices on the menu, which tops out at $8.95. Order the tamarind chicken wings and a bánh mì (right) -- a sandwich consisting of an agreeably crunchy baguette overstuffed with meat, cilantro and sliced carrots and cucumbers -- and you'll still receive change from your $10 bill.

In 2007, Jasmine Deli's owners opened Jasmine 26. The difference starts with the upgraded aesthetics, which strike an egalitarian balance between chic and cozy. Boxy modern light fixtures cast a sultry amber glow, making this an ideal date-night spot. The menu is more expansive here, too-though, at $12 to $15 for an entree, not wallet-busting expensive-with highlights including lemongrass ribs and bubble tea cocktails, a grown-up twist on a Southeast Asian street food standby.

A block south on Nicollet is Harry Singh's Original Caribbean Restaurant, a blink-and-you'll-miss-it sort of place known for its roti-a flatbread that Singh fills, burrito-style, with his signature curries. There's chicken ($9.95), of course, and goat ($10.95), but go straight for the curry potato and chick pea roti ($9.95), a heady study in complex yet mellow flavors, quintessential comfort food. If you crave more spice, add a few drops of the restaurant's mouth-incinerating hot sauce, which conclusively disproves the stereotype that food in Minnesota is uniformly bland.

In case it wasn't already clear: Lake Wobegon, this is not (even if there is a small-town feel to the low-slung buildings and the unassuming energy of the street, lively but far from frenzied). "This is a blended community, and that's something we see as an asset," says Marian Biehn, executive director of the Whittier Alliance, the local neighborhood group. And as new investors come into the neighborhood, Biehn and other community leaders work diligently "to get them to buy into that vision."

So far, so good: Evidence of this "blended" vision abounds, manifest in the diversity of your fellow eaters on the prowl and in your food options. There's Mexican, there's Greek. Chinese. Mediterranean. The Old Arizona Chocolate Lounge. And, back near 26th Street, consider a Malaysian restaurant called Peninsula; try a curry you've never heard of and thank me later.

Nightcap: Kitty-corner from the Black Forest Inn are the street's newest, swankest additions: Icehouse and Eat Street Social (right), both less than a year old. The Social gets the nod for its cocktail craftsmanship. It's already renowned for both impeccably made classics and original recipes like the Harvest Soon, which includes gin, cocoa nib liqueur and egg white. The Social also crafts old-school soda fountain drinks like house-made root beer and Bronx egg creams with the same care, for those who prefer a less potent nightcap.

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A Cowboy and His Cocoa: Meet Wyoming's Meeteetse Chocolatier

Melanie Wynne — 2013-02-08T09:51:00+00:00

Filed under: Food + Drink

Meeteetse, Wyoming, a tiny ranching community that springs from the yawning badlands of the Big Horn Basin like an old Western movie set, might be the last place on Earth you'd expect to find a rich, velvety Parisian-style hot chocolate. But there it is for the drinking in a former saloon on State Street, hand-blended by real-life cowboy Tim Kellogg.

To grasp the concept of a cowboy who makes exquisite chocolate treats, you'll need to rewind to 2004. Back then, local ranch hand and rodeo competitor Kellogg had set his heart on a new Bronc saddle, custom-made to fit the rider and costing upward of $1,300. To raise the money, he took his mosaic-artist mom's suggestion to make chocolates and sell them at Cody, Wyoming's annual Art in the Park event. To his grateful surprise, they were a hit.

Chocolate-making hadn't always been so rewarding for Kellogg. Once upon a time, he had thought it would be fun to hand-make chocolates for friends and family at Christmas, but tying on an apron once a year resulted in a painful learning curve; a mere four dozen chocolates required several days' struggle, and it took 11 months for him to find the will to recommit himself to confectionery.

But his initial success in the saddle, so to speak, changed his destiny. A few more fairs and sales helped build a loyal local following for his rich truffles, brownies and chocolate bark, and he'd soon discover that chocolate was more a passion than a mere hobby. In 2005, when he broke his ankle and dislocated his shoulder in the rodeo ring ("Turns out I don't actually bounce," he says of his injuries), he hung up his Bronc saddle for good and found himself content to devote more time to his culinary craft.

As demand steadily grew for his concoctions, Kellogg longed for a kitchen outside of his home. In 2009, he opened Meeteetse Chocolatier in its present location on State Street, a block-long interruption in northwestern Wyoming's Highway 20, where antelope roam against a backdrop of soaring blue Absaroka Mountains and bald eagles perch on weather-worn fence posts. The shop's vintage Western storefront has changed little since the late 1800s, when it was a notorious saloon called the Blue Ribbon Bar. The boardwalk planks of the front stoop, wall-hung horseshoes and swinging half-doors remain, but with a gleaming kitchen, gift bags of goodies in bushel baskets and a shiny glass dessert bar stocked high with treats, this local haunt's modern incarnation is now more Candy Land than Deadwood.

Kellogg, who's rarely seen without his Stetson hat and boots -- even in the kitchen -- has found that his true love is playing with flavors. He uses local ingredients like huckleberry, prickly pear cactus and sage in his chocolates and makes his own pine needle extracts from local conifers. He also uses a variety of standard alcoholic beverages -- one is Coors beer -- in some of his truffles. Kellogg's favorite concoction is his dark chocolate Focaccia Truffle, made with rosemary, olive oil and just a hint of salt. Many of his chocolates, which he makes by hand without additives or preservatives, can be ordered online as well as purchased in his State Street shop.

Kellogg equates being a chocolatier with being a vintner: Both are concerned with the terroir of their products, he explains, and where a cocoa bean comes from is as important as the provenance of a wine-making grape. To share his knowledge with his customers, he holds tastings in the shop almost every month, sometimes pairing chocolate with liquor. "Just like with wine, you can detect a caramel undertone or a floral note in chocolate," he says. "It's fun to open that door for people."

He's not satisfied to rest on his laurels, however. Each January, in the wake of the Christmas rush, he closes up shop and heads to Europe to attend culinary trade shows, take intensive courses at a culinary school in London and connect with other chocolatiers. Kellogg's trips abroad, always done in plenty of time to meet customer demand for Valentine's Day, inspire him to try out new techniques and products in his Meeteetse kitchen.

When he first tried a handmade hot chocolate in Paris, for instance, he knew he had to give this blend of melted chocolate and whole milk a go back home; his rich, warmly spiced hot chocolate drinks are now one of his shop's biggest draws.

These days, Kellogg doesn't have much time to attend rodeos, but he enjoys sponsoring local riders. He splits his week between working outdoors on the same ranch that first led him to Meeteetse and indoors making chocolates in his shop. While he could easily spend all his time tinkering in his kitchen, he dearly loves the seasonal, cyclical rhythm of ranch life, helping out with winter calving, fence mending, moving cattle, mucking stalls and feeding horses.

Kellogg says that his sweet secret to happiness is "never doing one thing long enough to get tired of it."

[Top photo: Brian Harrington/bhpimaging.com]

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