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Paia and Dinner on the North Shore: Maui Upcountry Road Trip

Chris Gray Faust — 2013-05-15T12:19:00+00:00

I left the dairy and continued heading toward the coast. While this technically ended my Upcountry tour, Maui's North Shore has its fair share of local flavor, albeit of the surfing variety. As you might expect from those who live wave to wave, the North Shore's main town, Paia, is geared toward those on a budget-well, as budget as Maui gets. Its few blocks of storefronts are full of bikini boutiques, crowded indie cafes and more than one head shop. To be honest, it seemed a little grungy to me, particularly when compared with the upscale galleries and shops in Makawao.

Luckily, my hotel, the Paia Inn, proved to be a suitable refuge. From the street, you can't tell that the cheerful yellow building housing the lobby is just one part of a sprawling complex of beachy-boutique cabins that wind down to the water. My apartment-sized room came with a living room, full kitchen and outdoor patio (and shower!). I had time for a quick dip before dinner so I grabbed a complimentary body board and headed out to the ocean, where I floated for an hour or two.

Road Trip Starting Point:
Exploring Maui's Upcountry

My job requires me to eat by myself quite a bit, and while I'm used to it, I always appreciate it when servers go out of their way to make sure that things go smoothly. That means they are solicitous without being overbearing, chatty without being familiar -- and they don't assume that you'll tip less. When I saw the crowds at Mama's Fish House, an iconic restaurant outside Paia that finds itself on many of Hawaii's top foodie lists, I worried that I'd feel out of place among the noisy vacationers and family groups. I didn't need to worry, as my server proved appropriately casual.

The entree prices, however, were anything but. While I'm used to splurging on occasional meals, entrees in the $40-$50 price range are still a shock. Sure, the menu points out exactly who caught the fish (I was told that my Ono, for example, had been caught "along the north shore of Maui by Jeff Holland"). And I did love my sashimi appetizer, served with delicious Hawaiian salt varieties that I vowed to buy later. Yet it seemed an indulgence, particularly on a weeknight; I felt a little guilty splurging on such a rich meal without my husband along to share. I can see why many people save this spot for their big night out on Maui.

Afterward, I took a walk along the sand out front (along with several couples, strolling hand in hand). As I looked out onto the water, the moon peeking through the palm trees, I realized how relaxed I was. My day in Upcountry had worked its aloha magic.

<< Previous Stop: Hanging 10 with the Goats
Starting Point: Road Trip: Exploring Maui's Upcountry >>

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Hanging 10 with the Goats: Maui Upcountry Road Trip

Chris Gray Faust — 2013-05-15T12:16:00+00:00

Filed under: Food + Drink, Road Trips

From here Route 37 continues south before turning east into the Piilani Highway, an alternate route to Hana that skirts Haleakala National Park. It's a two-hour drive along rugged and rocky roads along the ocean that can be a little rough -- not all rental car companies allow you to bring your car there. Instead, I turned around and backtracked north on 37. Here, it's easy to suss out Upcountry's priorities: Every other business along Route 37 seemed to be a homeopathic shop and/or massage studio.

Before I passed through Makawao, I turned on Omaopio, a decidedly rural road that winds past farms and dusty dirt roads. This is the heart of the island's agricultural community, where traditional crops include the famous sweet Maui (Kula) onion. I had milk instead of veggies on my mind today, however, as I pulled up to my next destination, the Surfing Goat Dairy.

Road Trip Starting Point:
Exploring Maui's Upcountry

Owned by German expats Thomas and Eva Kafsack, the Surfing Goat is one of only a handful of goat farms in the U.S. that have earned designation for humanely raised products. Their main product is artisan cheese, which is free of hormones, antibiotics and preservatives; it's served in upscale Hawaiian restaurants, including Alan Wong and Mama's Fish House, and also sold in some grocery stores on the mainland.

The parking lot at the surfboard-bedecked dairy was full on a summer weekday afternoon; the farm is a popular tourist stop for families, as they watch their kids play with goat kids. While there's no restaurant on-site, you can purchase the dairy's handmade spreads and goat cheese truffles, take a tour and even take part in the evening milking ritual ($12 for kids, $15 for adults).

After admiring the baby goats (it is hard to resist their cuteness), I did a quick sample of the cheeses that they were featuring that day at the homey wooden window. On my visit, standouts included Purple Rain, made with bits of Maui lavender; Rolling Green, full of fresh chives; and Men's Challenge, peppered with horseradish. The chevres tasted so good that I almost splurged on an $89 take-home six-pack, which included an insulated cooler to put in your checked luggage. Maybe next time.

Maui Upcountry Road Trip Stop Five: Paia and Dinner on the North Shore >>
<< Previous Stop: Lavender and Lunch near Kula

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Lavender and Lunch near Kula: Maui Upcountry Road Trip

Chris Gray Faust — 2013-05-15T12:12:00+00:00

Filed under: Food + Drink, Road Trips

The road out of Makawao passes through sugar cane fields, where you can glimpse the ocean through the waving grasses. I turned my car onto state Route 37 and headed toward Kula, home of the Ali'i Kula Lavender Farm.

The Haleakala crater, the remnant of a once-active volcano, dominates Upcountry Maui, and the soil on the leeward side supports many farms, including this one, which looks like something you'd see in Provence. The sustainable farm sits at a 4,000-foot elevation, which offers perfect cool weather for the 55,000 lavender plants. It's a popular place for a picnic (the farm charges $3 just to get in), and there are daily tours ($12) as well as frequent gardening and crafting classes.

Road Trip Starting Point:
Exploring Maui's Upcountry

I took a look at the tours but decided that it would be more fun to meander the purple-flowered hillside on my own, despite the rain clouds I saw rolling in from the mountains. Bees buzzed around the rows, and the air smelled like a spa, au natural; this relaxed me far more than any yoga class would. Before I left, I bought a lavender scone from the farm's gift shop to eat later.

Back in Makawao, Rene Wineland -- owner of the shop Aloha Cowboy -- had given me a quick synopsis of Maui's ranching history: In the 1830s, a few decades after cattle had been introduced to the island, Kamehameha III invited Spanish-Mexican vaqueros to capture and slaughter the beasts, which had been running free and causing problems. These vaqueros, along with the Hawaiians they brought into the business, became the paniolos, the Hawaiian cowboys.

At 20,000 acres, Ulupalakua Ranch remains one of the biggest of Maui's ranching tracts, where the Erdman family raises elk as well as cattle. You can sample both meats in burger form at the ranch's Grill (I saw a few people buying steaks to bring back to their condos). While both sounded great, I couldn't resist the opportunity to indulge in another Hawaiian staple, a BBQ kalua pig sandwich, and took it to the lawn's picnic tables. The pork tasted succulent, with a tangy sauce. Even the bun was grilled, a nice touch.

Right across the road from the grill sits Maui's Winery, located in a ranch guest house that was built for King Kalakaua, a frequent visitor back in the 1870s. Also known as Tedeschi Vineyards, the winery is the only commercial one on the island and has red, white and fruit varietals. I skipped the tour, opting for a free tasting of pineapple wine instead. Swirl, sip -- ugh, too sweet. I skipped buying a bottle.

Maui Upcountry Road Trip Stop Four: Hanging 10 with the Goats >>
<< Previous Stop: Malasadas in Makawao

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Malasadas in Makawao: Maui Upcountry Road Trip

Chris Gray Faust — 2013-05-15T12:08:00+00:00

Filed under: Food + Drink, Road Trips

Leaving Lumeria, I pulled my rental car out onto Baldwin Avenue, the two-lane road that runs from Maui's beach-oriented North Shore to the more agricultural island interior. The journey passes sugar cane fields of waving grass, with sloping hillsides up to Haleakala on one side and sweeping vistas down to the Pacific on the other. My next stop: Makawao and the T. Komoda Store & Bakery, the Upcountry place to come for malasadas, a Portuguese dessert made of fried dough.

Once known for its paniolos (cowboys), Makawao has reinvented itself as an arts destination, with trendy boutiques, galleries and restaurants popping up in its renovated plantation-style buildings. Drawn by the colorful giclees of island life propped up near the door, I stopped at the Kirsten Bunney Gallery, one of several art galleries along Makawao's main street.

Road Trip Starting Point:
Exploring Maui's Upcountry

Inside, a golden retriever named Jazzy snoozed in the middle of the floor as I chatted with Kirsten's husband, Scott. He told that me that while Makawao might seem like an off-the-beaten-track location, the town is one of the few places on the island where artists can still make a living, as high rents have pushed locals out of Lahaina. The concentration of artists has its benefits, he said, as Makawao now has enough critical mass to sponsor a third Friday art walk celebration, as well as an organic farmers market on Wednesdays.

Such gentrification can rejuvenate a community. But I was more interested in a Makawao institution that's been around for nearly 100 years. The T. Komoda Store & Bakery looks nondescript on the outside, with a Coca-Cola sign that's ragged around the edges. Skip the crowded aisles as your eyes adjust to the dim light inside the grocery and go straight to the old-fashioned glass case that's filled with several dozen varieties of baked goods.

I had read good reviews of the doughnuts, stacked five to six deep on a wooden stick, as well as the signature cream puffs. You can only consume so many calories, however, and I had mine reserved for the malasadas. At Komoda, these sweet treats are tossed in sugar and filled with custard or fruit; top choices include guava and coconut, which win raves for their freshness. I chose the latter, enjoying the flavors as they melded with the cinnamon-sweet dough. Some cravings are worth the wait.

Maui Upcountry Road Trip Stop Three: Lavender and Lunch near Kula >>
<< Previous Stop: Starting Healthy at Lumeria Sanctuary

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Starting Healthy at Lumeria Sanctuary: Maui Upcountry Road Trip

Chris Gray Faust — 2013-05-15T12:04:00+00:00

Filed under: Food + Drink, Road Trips

I'm not what you'd call a yoga person. Contorting my body into odd poses, often at ungodly hours? So not my thing.

But I couldn't resist the allure of Lumeria, a luxury wellness retreat located in Upcountry, on the road between Paia and Makawao. Built in 1909 by a wealthy family, the 6-acre, 24-room historic property was transformed into an Asian-influenced sanctuary by designer Xorin Balbes in early 2012, with Balinese loungers and Buddha statues scattered around the lush grounds. (Since my visit, a saltwater pool and whirlpool have been added.)

Road Trip Starting Point:
Exploring Maui's Upcountry

The sound of roosters stirred me from my four-poster bed. Meant as an escape from the noise of daily life, the resort doesn't have TVs or other entertainment in the rooms (although you are welcome to borrow books from the New Age-heavy library). Leaving my room and padding my way through the open-air hallway, I saw some people out on the lawn performing sun salutations and peeked in on a few flexible souls getting into their downward dog. Relaxed from the lomi lomi massage I had on-site the day before and lulled by the property's spa-style wind chimes, I thought briefly about joining them. Nah. Breakfast was calling.

Lumeria's dining room is simple, with countryside chic touches. Pitchers of organic fruit juices and lemon mint water were available, along with fresh fruit, granola and yogurt (many guests come to Lumeria for the resort's specially designed juice cleanses). As I surveyed the choices, a fit couple in yoga gear entered, flushed from their morning session. Hailing from Phoenix, they had found Lumeria through a coupon travel site and planned their Hawaiian vacation to take advantage of the classes and healthy food.

Personally, I'm a little more indulgent, especially when it comes to Hawaiian food. So I ate lightly, saving room for the treats that I knew I'd find around the island later. There are many ways to find your bliss.

Maui Upcountry Road Trip Stop Two: Malasadas in Makawao >>
<< Road Trip: Exploring Maui's Upcountry

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Road Trip: Exploring Maui's Upcountry

Chris Gray Faust — 2013-05-15T12:00:00+00:00

Filed under: Food + Drink, Road Trips

Most Maui visitors stick close to the coast, concentrating their vacations in the resort towns of Lahaina and Wailea, or driving the twisty road to Hana. What people don't realize is that the interior, known as Upcountry, offers a breezy tranquility, with locally owned boutiques and art galleries, restaurants and farms, yoga retreats and wellness studios. While Upcountry isn't completely undiscovered -- Oprah owns a large ranch there -- the smaller towns and rolling hills give a glimpse of the way that life on this mostly agricultural island used to be.

Looking for more road trip ideas? Visit our Great American Road Trips home page.

On this food-focused day trip, I made a circle through Upcountry, seeking out fresh produce and Hawaiian favorites, such as malasadas. The road trip took me from the North Shore beach town of Paia, home to Mama's Fish House, to Ulupalakua Ranch, which lies not far from the Haleakala National Park. Along the way, I met some native Hawaiians, as well as transplants, who revealed why Upcountry is such a draw for those who want to enjoy local flavors while escaping the congestion and high prices that dominate Maui's more typical tourist areas.

Maui Road Trip Stop One: Starting Healthy at Lumeria Sanctuary
Maui Road Trip Stop Two: Malasadas in Makawao
Maui Road Trip Stop Three: Lavender and Lunch near Kula
Maui Road Trip Stop Four: Hanging 10 with the Goats
Maui Road Trip Stop Five: Paia and dinner on the North Shore

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10 Innovative Green Hotels in the U.S.

Chris Gray Faust — 2013-04-22T09:17:00+00:00

Filed under: Hotel, Arts & Culture, EcoTravel, Luxury

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Travel Apps: How to Make Your Smartphone a Smarter Travel Companion

Chris Gray Faust — 2013-04-01T10:41:00+00:00

Filed under: Tips & Tricks

The days of the unplugged vacation are long gone; more than ever, travelers of all ages pack their smartphones when they hit the road.

At least that's what analyst Peter Yesawich of MMGY Global found in his annual survey of frequent travelers. More than half of the Americans interviewed, all from households with an income over $50,000, brought smartphones with them on trips, he says, and 21 percent brought several devices. His conclusion? The group he calls the digital elite appears to be growing.

Even so, not everyone needs a smartphone overseas. If you are taking a tour or cruise where most of your itinerary is already planned, you might feel more relaxed if you leave your phone at home. But for travelers taking a more independent path, there are advantages to having your smartphone by your side (just make sure you will have Wi-Fi or an international data plan that fits your budget). We've outlined a few useful apps below.

Booking
Most popular travel websites, such as TripAdvisor, Priceline, Hotels.com and Kayak, have free smartphone apps and mobile-enabled websites. The HotelTonight app sells heavily discounted rooms that, as the name suggests, are available that night; you have to wait until noon to use it.

Airbnb and Couchsurfing-services that allow you to rent rooms in people's homes-also have smartphone apps. Keep in mind that you're working with a person, not a company, so give yourself a few days for back-and-forth emails before you need the room.

Checking in
The free apps offered by airlines are becoming more sophisticated all the time. Most allow you to check in, access a mobile boarding pass, keep track of your baggage and view your mileage account. United even allows elite flyers to monitor the upgrade list.

Other aviation apps include FlightTrack, which shows you when flights are coming in (both free and paid versions are available); Next Flight ($2.99, Apple; $3.99, Android), which brings up all of the flights that are available that day on your route (very handy if you

experience delays or you want to take an earlier flight); and Skyscanner (free), which shows you timetables for all flight routes.

Organizing
Remember when travel meant carrying printouts of all your confirmation numbers? If you're still shuffling through sheaves of paper, consider downloading the TripIt app, which keeps all your travel plans in one place. When you receive a confirmation email for your flight or hotel, you forward it to the company, which organizes it on your account. Frequent travelers won't leave home without it (free, with ads or $3.99).

Finding destinations
Another space saver, the best mobile destination guidebooks have offline maps so you can use them without getting charged for data. Oh, Ranger! helps its users find federal, state and local parks, while Swim Guide locates pools, lakes and nearby recreation areas. Yelp boasts bar and restaurant reviews in almost every city, from a younger (and snarkier) point of view. OpenTable allows you to make reservations on the fly.

Keeping in touch
Even though you have your smartphone with you, there's no reason to use it to make a pricey international call. A web/WiFi app such as Skype or FaceTime can be the cheapest way to callhome. Skype calls are free when you are contacting other Skype users, and it's inexpensive to call a non-Skype number. FaceTime is a good choice for a family of Apple users.

Using social media
In Yesawich's survey, he found that nearly half of travelers in their 30s or younger say they post photos on Facebook and other social networks to "make friends jealous." For the social media butterfly, apps for Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest and Instagram are nonnegotiable.

Staying on budget
Bills keep coming, even when you're away from home. Many banks and credit card companies have their own apps, so you can check your balance, transfer funds and pay bills. Other apps can help find deals and low prices as you're traveling. GasBuddy, for example, tracks gasoline prices.

Miscellaneous
Some smartphone apps don't fit into a specific category but are useful nonetheless: Daylight, an app that shows sunrise and sunset times for wherever you are; Night Sky, an astronomy app; and Tides (predictions for tides and currents). Read menus in low light with Flashlight. And Tipster not only calculates tips and bill splitting, it offers tipping guidelines for different countries.

More tips to help you travel better:
How to Find Under the Radar Travel Spots
Group Trips: How to Plan a Smooth Getaway
Flying With Kids: How to Avoid a Cataclysm in Seat 9B
How to Communicate Abroad When You Don't Speak the Local Language
How to Relieve Stress on the Road

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Group Trips: How to Plan a Smooth Getaway

Chris Gray Faust — 2013-03-25T12:43:00+00:00

Filed under: Tips & Tricks

Maybe your sister wants to split a summer shore house. Or your college buddy is mounting a 30th-birthday expedition to Burning Man. Celebration vacations - any birthday that is divisible by 5 - and multigenerational gatherings are on the rise in 2013, says travel analyst Peter Yesawich of MMGY Global. With more people teaming up to split costs and create memories, chances are high that you'll be involved in a group trip sooner or later.

But whether you're organizing a full-blown family reunion or a city getaway with friends, traveling in a group can be stressful. Money worries and unrealistic expectations, not to mention personality conflicts, can create problems that go far beyond splitting the check. Here are a few things you can do to make your group trip run smoothly:

Issue invitations carefully
People don't change personalities because they are on vacation. The restless brother who always needs something to do will not enjoy a sedentary day at the beach. Your best friend who cuts coupons will probably be horrified by a high-priced spa menu. Not everyone is right for every trip - and it's better to gather a smaller group with similar tastes than trying to reach compromise with a larger one.

Ask for priorities
You can't pick your family, the saying goes, which means that often your travel guest list is set in stone. Debates over destinations can get heated; sidestep arguments by asking group members about their vacation priorities. Do they want to relax or go, go go? Cook gourmet meals or dine at hip restaurants? For most people, time off is limited and therefore precious; knowing what each person prefers can help you pick the right place from the get-go.

Discuss finances
Money can be a sticky subject, so having a discussion about your budget sooner rather than later is the most important thing you can do to keep the peace. If one couple is thinking $5,000 when another can only chip in $2,000, feelings will get hurt and friendships strained if the costs aren't dialed down.

Brainstorm together
Sharing ideas with the group as you plan not only sets expectations, it can smooth out differences before you go. A joint Pinterest board would work well, as would a private Facebook group visible only to those taking the trip. Your goal is to come up with a loose itinerary so everyone is on the same page before you leave home.

Be flexible
Although having a few planned activities avoids that "what do we do next?" question, don't be afraid to be flexible. Better yet, encourage others in the party to pursue their own bliss. Not everyone has to take the hike to the waterfall or visit the rose garden; time apart to rest, recharge and do your own thing can make the group activities more satisfying.

Debrief
Settle and share any debts as soon as possible. Post photos to Facebook or a photo sharing site such as Flickr and SmugMug; just make sure that your friends approve images before you tag them (and trust us, no one wants that karaoke video out in the universe). Write down a list of funny quotes or stories from the trip because you might forget later.

Once you're home, take some time to assess the trip. If traveling with your husband's best friend and his wife proved to be a hassle, don't be afraid to say no next time. Life is too short to vacation with the wrong people.

More tips to help you travel better:
How to Find Under the Radar Travel Spots
Flying With Kids: How to Avoid a Cataclysm in Seat 9B
How to Communicate Abroad When You Don't Speak the Local Language
How to Relieve Stress on the Road

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Hawaiian Food: Where to Eat Like the President on the Mainland

Chris Gray Faust — 2012-12-22T11:49:00+00:00

Filed under: Food + Drink

The pictures of our Honolulu-raised president eating shave ice while on vacation represent only a glimpse of the Hawaiian foods that make the Aloha State such a favorite with foodies. Since Barack Obama came into office four years ago, Hawaiian food has experienced a mini-revival on the mainland, exposing more people to the joys of loco moco, tuna poke and kalua pork.Besides earning the presidential seal of approval, Hawaiian dishes and flavors have proved popular with today's urban trendsetters: food trucks. Furthermore, the TV presence of James Beard Award-winning chefs Alan Wong, Roy Yamaguchi and Sam Choy has made more haoles aware of the cuisine, which combines island ingredients with flavors from Japan, Korea and the South Pacific.

"It's only a matter of time until Hawaiian food makes its way across the U.S.," says Choy. One of the 12 founders of the Hawaiian regional cuisine movement (now more than 20 years old), the chef opened his Pineapple Express food truck - inspired by food trucks on Oahu's North Shore - in Los Angeles earlier this year. "I think we will see a big boost in Hawaiian concepts this next year and moving forward."

Kamala Saxton, whose Marination Mobile spawned two brick-and-mortar restaurants in Seattle, says people are drawn to the emotional connections of Hawaiian food, even if the dishes aren't familiar to them. "Hawaiian cuisine is tied to hospitality," she says. "If you are in a small town in the Midwest, you might not know about laulau (fish, pork, chicken or vegetables steamed inside ti leaves). But you might know the people who are cooking for you. That extended 'aloha' is part of our culture."

While a trip to the islands remains the best way to sample the state's particular blend of fusion flare, consider the following dishes a delicious dip into Hawaiian cuisine while you're on the mainland.

LOCO MOCO

What it is: The comfort food centerpiece of almost any Hawaiian plate lunch establishment, the typical loco moco involves several hamburger patties on heaping servings of rice, slopped with gravy and a runny egg (or two). If that's not enough, some places add a scoop of macaroni salad.

Don't miss it at: Some restaurateurs have gone upscale with loco moco. For instance, Jon Shook and Vinny Dotolo, the L.A. chefs behind meat-centric restaurant Animal, offered a foie gras version before California banned the delicacy. But if you want a more typical gloppy experience, go to one of the 175-plus outposts of L&L Hawaiian BBQ. There's even one in New York City's Financial District.

SPAM MUSUBI

What it is: The Hawaiian taste for spam has been well-documented; its popularity dates back to World War II, when the processed meat put out by Hormel was widely distributed to GIs. While you can find Spam prepared in various ways on the islands, it's most often marinated and pan-fried, then wrapped with dried seaweed on a block of rice.

Don't miss it at: At Kamala Saxton's Marination Mobile in Seattle, Spam musubi is often ordered in a whisper. "It's a bit of a dirty secret," says Saxton. One of her employees even made a sign telling customers not to be "spam-prehensive." "It's a guilty pleasure. It's salty and sweet and really hits the spot." Besides following the Marination Mobile food truck on Twitter (@curb_cuisine), Seattle Spam lovers can find it at Saxton's storefronts, the Marination Station in Capitol Hill and Marination Ma Kai in west Seattle.

POKE

What it is: If you're a sashimi fan, you'll love poke (pronounced po-kay). Served in grocery stores on the islands, poke consists of raw fish cut into cubes that are then marinated with sea salt, soy sauce, sesame oil, chili oil and sesame seeds; onions, tomatoes, macadamia nuts and other local ingredients can be added. "It is something that I've always loved," says Choy, who considers it the "gateway" Hawaiian food. "It is something that can be reinvented to complement any season, peak produce and, of course, seafood."

Don't miss it at: Choy's truck, the Pineapple Express, serves poke in sliders, a parfait or a simple cup. "We pride ourselves on utilizing only sustainable seafood species," he says. "So one day it may be ahi, and the next it's ono or salmon. It's really provided our guests an opportunity to sample the dish over and over again." Find the truck in Los Angeles on Twitter (@SamChoysPX) or Facebook.

KALUA PORK

What it is: Served at luaus, kalua pork usually comes from a pig that has been seasoned, salted and cooked in an underground oven, or imu, lined with banana leaves and stuffed with hot rocks. Over the years, chefs and home cooks have streamlined and modernized the dish by wrapping pork shoulder butt in ti leaves, flavoring it with mesquite or liquid smoke and slow cooking it in an oven or pressure cooker.

Don't miss it at: Roy Yamaguchi, one of the pioneers of Hawaiian regional cuisine, usually has at least one kalua pork dish on the seasonally changing menu at his nationwide chain of Roy's restaurants (23 on the mainland U.S. and six in Hawaii). Look for it in quesadillas or tacos, baked in a smoked Gouda mac 'n' cheese or popped into an eggroll-like lumpia.

MALASADA

What it is: While Hawaiian food is more commonly associated with Pacific Rim flavors, Europeans played a role in its development as well - and nowhere is that more apparent than in this doughnut-style pastry of Portuguese origin. Deep-fried and traditionally served before Lent, malasadas came from the Madeira and Azores islands to the Hawaiian ones through plantation workers; now visitors and local residents line up at bakeries like Leonard's in Honolulu to get their fix.

Don't miss it at: You can find malasadas at bakeries in places with traditional Portuguese communities, such as Providence, RI, and southeast Massachusetts. Chef Carol Wallack (who has a home in Maui) makes a version with hot fudge and raspberry sauce at her Hawaiian-influenced fine dining restaurant Sola in Chicago's North Center.

SHAVE ICE

What it is: Don't add the "d," and definitely don't call it a snow cone. Hawaiians feel proprietary toward their keep-cool-on-a-hot-day, melt-in-your-mouth dessert, made with fine ice that has been shaved, not crushed, from a block. Various flavors of brightly colored syrups are absorbed into the ice, usually served in a paper cup. Ice cream, condensed milk and even adzuki beans can be used as toppings.

Don't miss it at: Shave ice flourishes in Southern California, where Hawaiian expats have long taken advantage of the hot weather and beach culture to spread their cuisine. Not as logical: the success of shave ice in suburban Washington, DC, where two food vendors serving up the sweets have become summer staples. The Clayboys Shave Ice stand in Bethesda (corner of Bethesda and Woodmont) has been around for more than a decade (as a twist, a Swedish fish is stuck inside).

The young operators of AJ's Hawaiian Iceez (brothers Adam and Jonathan Holland are still in their teens) make up in publicity what they lack in years: The Prince George's County residents have been highlighted by BET and the Washington Post and have won several entrepreneurship awards. Find them at festivals and large events during the summer; check their Facebook page for details.

(Photo: Sam Choy's Pineapple Express)

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Eight Travel Tips for Bowl Game Travelers

Chris Gray Faust — 2012-12-06T08:55:00+00:00

Filed under: Tips & Tricks

Even before college football wrapped up its regular season, die-hard fans looked ahead to postseason play, in the hopes that their team landed a coveted bowl game berth. While the date and place play a prominent role - New Year's Day provides the most excitement, preferably someplace warm - many people follow their teams to the finish, no matter where that might be.

Little Caesars Pizza Bowl in Detroit, anyone?

The challenge of going to a bowl game is its last-minute nature. Although projections are rampant during the season, no one really knows where a team will play until invitations are issued and accepted the first weekend of December. That means fans end up buying plane tickets, booking hotel rooms and scrounging for tickets at the last minute, at one of the most expensive times of the year to travel.

Yet when a team has been on the bottom for a while, bowl game tickets go fast, no matter what the cost. The demand from Notre Dame fans for tickets to the BCS National Championship game outside Miami on Jan. 7 has been so fierce that Anthony Travel, which organizes bowl travel for the Fighting Irish as well as nine other schools, instituted a lottery for the chance to buy packages, which are estimated to cost between $1,700 and $2,400 per person, double occupancy. And that's without airfare.

Here are a few tips if you're thinking about going Bowling:

Decide what kind of experience you want
There are all types of ways to enjoy a bowl game, from dancing at black-tie balls where one of your partners is the university president to huddling together with several friends and a keg at a divey motel.

On the high end, tour operator Tauck has a five-day Rose Bowl package that includes several days of Los Angeles sightseeing, a close-up look at the floral floats of the Rose Parade (plus grandstand seats), a New Year's Eve gala at the Beverly Hilton and seats in the corner end zone. The total package with tickets starts at $4,215, not including airfare. The Tournament of Roses also offers its own packages.

Seek advice from alums
Far more common: Packages put together by the university alumni relations or athletics department. While they may not include airfare, these group packages usually bundle hotel costs with tickets and often offer pre- and post-game gatherings and festivities, like a New Year's Eve party or admission to a catered tailgate party before the game.

If you want to go this route, you should go to your alma mater's alumni relations website and sign up for ticket and package notifications - yesterday. Obviously, demand and cost depend on how popular the bowl is. Expect high prices for the five BCS games: the Rose Bowl, the Orange Bowl, the Sugar Bowl, the Fiesta Bowl and the National Championship game. You'll pay far less for, say, the Beef 'O' Brady's Bowl (Dec. 21 in St. Petersburg, Fla.) or Idaho's Potato Bowl (Dec. 15 in Boise).

If you're not an alum of a participating school, make some friends who are. Most universities have alumni clubs in other states and regions, and someone who has access to ticket purchasing is likely among them. It's too late to schmooze alums at public viewing parties (usually held in bars), but you could check the university alumni relations website and find the local club president. Chances are, he or she knows someone in your area who can hook you up.

Have it your way
Making your own arrangements isn't the easiest way to go, but it does offer more control over where you'll sleep, eat and party. I've done the December bowl game dance myself twice - once to see the Northwestern Wildcats play in the Rose Bowl on Jan. 1, 1996, and a second time when they made it to the Outback Bowl in 2010. Both times, I put together my own trip with friends, buying tickets, flights and hotel rooms - and figuring out what to do on New Year's Eve.

Shop airports
Now is also the time to set up an airfare notification on Kayak, Airfarewatchdog or your favorite flight search engine. Although you aren't likely to find bargains for New Year's Eve travel, you can often save some money by flying into a nearby airport and driving to your destination. In Florida, for example, Orlando, Fort Lauderdale and Tampa may have better deals than Jacksonville or Miami. Flying midweek often saves you money as well.

Consider a road trip
That's what LSU fan Keith Darce did for his team's appearances in the Cotton Bowl and Peach Bowl (now called the Chick-fil-A Bowl). He drove with friends from New Orleans to both Dallas and Atlanta, arriving in the city the night before and sharing a hotel room. "That leaves more money for food, drinks and game souvenirs," he said.

Track down tickets
If you can't get seats through your school, you can pursue alternate means, such as StubHub or Craigslist. Surprise upsets at the end of the season can work to your advantage, as some overeager alumni might have bought tickets for a bowl berth that never materialized. Also check your team's opponent: If one team has to travel a long way to the bowl, the school might end up with extra inventory that it needs to dump locally.

Of course, the downside to buying these tickets is that you could be seated in the middle of enemy territory.

Stay nearby or outside the city
While some Bowl stadiums are close to city center (such as New Orleans' Superdome, which is within cab and walking distance of downtown), others lie on the outskirts. If you're already using a rental car to get to the game, you might as well book a cheaper hotel away from the downtown. That's what my friend and I did in Tampa for our Outback Bowl experience. We used the blind booking site Hotwire to nab a room at a weirdly located InterContinental for under $100.

Pre-party responsibly
Wandering around a new city without a plan is lame. Scout out the destination in advance and figure out key places to eat and drink. Choose a designated driver and go lightly on the booze: One of my friends once missed the entire first half due to a monster hangover. We've never let her live it down.

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BCS Bowl Games Travel Guide

Chris Gray Faust — 2012-12-06T08:53:00+00:00

Filed under: Weekend Getaways

Congratulations! Your favorite college football team fought its way to the top of the BCS bowl rankings and now you're bowl-bound this January. Scoring tickets and arranging your hotel and transportation are the hard parts; once that's over, check out our picks in the BCS bowl game towns.
Pasadena (Rose Bowl)
Jan. 1
Rose Bowl Stadium
Wisconsin vs. Stanford

Suburban Pasadena can seem far more than 10 miles from Los Angeles' hipper neighborhoods. And the late 1800s Mission and Revival architecture and pedestrian friendliness of Old Town Pasadena can be more manageable than L.A.'s sprawl, especially if you're traveling with your family. First played in 1902, the Rose Bowl is the oldest and arguably most prestigious BCS bowl game; the tradition of New Year's Day football games started here.

Sports bar
If Old Town's establishments start looking too pristine in the California sun, duck into Freddie's 35er, a sports bar that's decidedly on the dive side of the spectrum (open since 1963, its nickname is the "dirty diver"). Despite this, it's one of the few sports bars that is regularly open early enough to catch all the games playing in Eastern time zones. Don't expect to stick to your diet; the bar boasts that all foods on the menu are fried (except the free popcorn).

Tailgate food
Gus's BBQ in South Pasadena has been around since 1946, serving up beer-braised brisket, ribs, pulled pork, brick chicken, smoked sausage and countless sides. Party packs that will feed your entire alumni group are available, and all come with cast-iron cornbread.

Local legend
Rose Bowl Stadium is home turf for UCLA, so leave that USC shirt at home. Sadly, there are no outposts of Wingstop, which has Bruin alum Troy Aikman as its spokesperson, in Pasadena, but there are several in nearby L.A. communities.

Off the grid
A few days before the Tournament of Roses parade, the float barns where the topiary-style creations are made are open to the public. Some even offer last-minute volunteer opportunities; check the Pasadena Convention & Visitors Bureau website for information.

Miami (Orange Bowl, BCS National Championship)
Jan. 1 for Orange Bowl, Jan. 7 for BCS Championship
Sun Life Stadium
Florida State vs. Northern Illinois, Orange Bowl; Alabama vs. Notre Dame, BCS Championship

Miami is always up for a party, and the dual BCS bowl games that kick off the New Year are no exception. While the stadium itself is in a nondescript area of Dade County known as Miami Gardens, bowl-goers can stay and play anywhere in the city. While everyone knows about South Beach and Coconut Grove, Brickell, Wynwood and Little Haiti are other options, as is nearby Fort Lauderdale (which has become more stylish, less Spring Break in recent years). Miami is notoriously hard for pedestrians, so make a car rental your first priority. It's up to you whether it's a convertible.

Sports bar
The Clevelander Hotel in the South Beach neighborhood has been around since 1938, but the vibe at this Art Deco landmark now is decidedly 21st-century; tourists crowd its clubs at all hours, ponying up $15 for a mojito. (Consider yourself warned: SoBe can be a budget buster.)

Wear your swimsuit to Game On, the hotel's dedicated sports bar, which has 20 TVs and a pool where you can take a dip, should the action get too heated.

Tailgate food
Miami is justifiably known for its Cuban food - and nothing beats an authentic Cuban sandwich, served on flaky bread and toasted with butter before it's pressed. Take a detour to Calle Ocho in Little Havana and pick up a few to go at Versailles' takeout window, La Ventanita, where you'll often find Cuban exiles enjoying café con leche and gossip.

Local legend
Former Miami Dolphins coach Don Shula has built a steakhouse empire with outposts throughout the South, East and Midwest. Visit the original, a salute to the 1972 Fins, at Shula's Hotel and Golf Club. Bonus: It's close to Sun Life Stadium.

Off the grid
Chances are, if you've spent the money to head down to Miami in January, you're going to hit the beach. But which one? Get away from the city's go-go attitude at Bill Baggs Cape Florida State Park in Key Biscayne, which offers historic trails and a lighthouse. Or jump into the scene with both feet at South Beach, where Ocean Drive is still the spot to show off the results of your winter workouts. If the revealing swimsuits aren't skimpy enough, head to Haulover Beach, one of the country's few public nude beaches.

New Orleans (Sugar Bowl)
Jan. 2
Superdome
Florida vs. Louisville

New Orleans is tailor-made for football fans, with an ever-growing number of bars and restaurants in the once-barren area surrounding the Superdome (including Borgne, a highly rated John Besh restaurant in the Hyatt Regency) and a welcoming atmosphere sure to please any tourist. The Loyola streetcar line, set to run from Canal Street on the edge of the French Quarter to the Dome, might not be open in time for the Sugar Bowl, although it is on track for the Super Bowl a month later. However, the city's Central Business District is compact enough that you can get around easily by foot or cab (too many Abitas and you shouldn't be driving anyway).

Sports bar
Steps from the Superdome, the New Orleans Hyatt Regency was heavily damaged during Hurricane Katrina and its reopening in late 2011 represented another milestone in the city's recovery. Named for the first American for-profit movie theater, built in New Orleans in 1896 (this city loves its history), Vitascope Hall is meant to be a sophisticated sports bar, where you nibble sushi and drink craft cocktails while watching the game on one of 42 flat screens. Or download the bar's app, which allows you to select music choices on the DJ's sound system.

Tailgate food
It isn't game day in the Crescent City without a pot of gumbo on the stove. Buy your own at Mother's, where a gallon of file gumbo goes for $50 (the seafood gumbo is also sublime, but you'll pay more). Other Cajun/Creole choices include po'boys, jambalaya, red beans and fried chicken.

Local legend
Who Dat? The city's love for the Saints has only deepened in the post-Katrina era. While QB Drew Brees is a local investor in sandwich franchise Jimmy John's, most of the locations are in the 'burbs. But black-and-gold legend Archie Manning (yep, dad to Peyton and Eli) has some of his family's memorabilia on view at Manning's, a restaurant serving Southern/Creole comfort food in the Harrah's Casino downtown. Groups can reserve the private End Zone recliner section, which features a mega TV and stadium-style seating.

Off the grid
Take a break and explore the music that made New Orleans famous on one of John McCusker's jazz walking tours. McCusker, a local author (he wrote the book on Kid Ory) and former news photographer for the Times-Picayune, is so well known as a jazz authority that a version of his tour showed up on the HBO series "Treme." Email jazzhistorytour@yahoo.com for schedule and availability.

Glendale/Phoenix (Fiesta Bowl)
Jan. 3
University of Phoenix Stadium
Kansas State vs. Oregon

On the west side of Phoenix, Glendale doesn't have the name recognition of crosstown sports hubs like Scottsdale and Tempe. But there's a lot to like in the family-oriented suburb, which has a historic downtown full of mom-and-pop stores and restaurants housed in converted bungalows. Plus the view from Thunderbird Conservation Park, where ESPN took its beauty shots of the stadium last month, equals anything you'd find elsewhere in the Valley of the Sun.

Sports bar
Not to be confused with the bar that bears the same name at Apache Greyhound Park, Max's Sports Bar and Restaurant in downtown Glendale wins points for a bank of large-screen HD TVs, which the bartenders will tune to your game of choice, as well as a monster collection of football helmets. Daily lunch and dinner specials of the homey sort -- think Salisbury steak or meatloaf sandwiches -- elevate the food choices beyond the typical wings 'n' things.

Tailgate food
The chicken tacos at Pedro's Mexican regularly win awards from city magazines, plus the downtown Glendale establishment is locally owned (a bonus in chain-rife Phoenix). Everything on the menu, from tamales to fry breads, is available for takeout.

Local legend
Although the Cardinals and ASU call it home, the Phoenix area tends to get more excited about the basketball court than the gridiron. Former Suns player and current assistant coach Dan Majerle has four Majerle's Sports Grills; the downtown Phoenix location is closest to Glendale.

Off the grid
Have your own Willy Wonka experience with a free tour through the Cerreta's Candy Co. factory. From chocolates shaped like cacti and sheriff's stars to Western honey peanut brittle and Camelback pecan caramel clusters, Cerreta has been making candy with an Arizona twist for 40 years. Ride your sugar rush all the way to the game.

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